Archive for April, 2013

Tales of Risotto

Thursday, April 18th, 2013

Several years ago I visited Lake Como and was given a cookbook “Tales of Risotto, Culinary Adventures from Villa d’ Este”.

Tales of Risotto

Tales of Risotto

It includes 50 risotto recipes typical of northern Italy; and has some worthwhile tips. While most risotto recipes call for Arborio rice, this book recommends Carnaroli rice.¬† Although Carnaroli might have been selected because of geographic preferences, the authors point out that the rice has an advantage. Carnaroli rice doesn’t get mushy as you overcook it; which is a real plus for the home chef because you don’t need to watch it as closely as the more popular Arborio.

Carnaroli Rice

Most risotto recipes begin with sauteing onions or shallots in olive oil, but this cookbook suggests using butter. We should not be surprised, because butter is often substituted for olive oil in northern Italy. Although the butter will not make the dish more dietetic, it does make the risotto rich and creamy.

Lastly, while you constantly read how Italians frown on adding cheese to seafood dishes; this cookbook heartily recommends fresh Parmesan cheese be added to seafood risottos.

I made a Shrimp risotto with asparagus; and I added a healthy amount of Parmigiano Reggiano on top.

Risotto with Shrimp & Asparagus

Carnaroli rice, butter, and Parmigiano Reggiano will make your shrimp risotto delizioso.

La Mangeoire – Under the Radar

Friday, April 5th, 2013

Where should you eat French food in NYC? Well, all the buzz today is about Lafayette, Andrew Carmellini’s place that will open in a couple weeks. Calliope, Le Philosophe, or a classic like Baltazar also are quite admired, but are very hard to get into. Isn’t there a restaurant that serves good food and that you don’t need to wait 4 weeks for a reservation? Yes, thankfully there are restaurants under the radar.

La Mangeoire is a real gem located on 2nd Avenue and 53rd Street.

La Mangeoire Restaurant

Remember in 1998 the NY Times awarded Christian Delouvrier of Lespinasse 4 Stars? Well, Chef Delouvrier is at the helm at La Mangeoire, and he is turning out some stellar food. This charming restaurant has been around since 1975, and the quaint atmosphere makes you feel like you are eating in Provence. The food is simple, but superbly prepared. Mussels, Roast Chicken, or Coq au Vin all rock. The dish that really captured my attention was the Frisee Salad…the poached egg was breaded and fried and was paired with delicious lardons….heaven.

La Mangeoire was a great every time that I visited it, and I can’t wait to go back. I will seek out other restaurants under the radar and keep you posted.



Carrots – Boil, Steam or Roast?

Thursday, April 4th, 2013

While we are all anticipating the arrival of Spring vegetables, I think we still have a few more weeks. I suggest that we stick to the classics like carrots. But should we boil, steam or roast them?


I prefer roasted carrots because the caramelization heightens the flavor. Usually I just add olive oil, dill, salt and pepper and roast the carrots at a high temperature. But I have 2 other variations that you might find interesting.

To brighten the flavor of the carrots, while also adding a touch of sweetness, I add a few splashes of pear or fig vinegar (Il Fustino is a good for vinegars)to the above mixture.

Another way to roast your carrots is to add spices; which will  add more complexity. I add cumin, coriander, paprika, and a touch cayenne pepper. These Turkish seasonings add an earthiness and a bit of zip.